
Class 8 



Book 



3^_ 



Copyright N?_______ 

COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



/oL 



THE 

UPHOLSTERING 
GUIDE 



A COMPLETE 
TREATISE ON FURNITURE WORK 

CONTAINING 

PRACTICAL, COMPREHENSIVE INSTRUCTIONS 
IN TWENTY-TWO DISTINCTIVE PARTS. 

ILLUSTRATED WITH 17 HALF TONES. 



WRITTEN BY 

G. A. MACKEY, Practical Upholsterer 
and Interior Decorator, 



PRICE IN CLOTH BINDING 50c. IN HEAVY PAPER 25c. 



Copyrighted by 

THE MACKEY COMPANY 

1905 

All Rights Reserved. 



Published by The Mackey Company 
Elyria, Ohio 






LIBRARY Of OftNQRESS 
two Copies Received 

APR 10 1905 

Jouyritfiu tnuy 

CZM- 7 / ?o 6~ 

OU&S 6c XXc. NO) 

COPY B. 



KNOWING 

The people of our country to be home makers, who enjoy all 
home work, when the results are satisfactory and economical, I 
write "The Upholstering Guide," covering- all parts of the 
work in a plain, simple manner. 

There is furniture in every home for which there are possi- 
bilities. Look it up ; in celler, attic or shed. The more antique, 

the better. 

Let me help you with the work. It is my hobby. My 
knowledge of Upholstering-, Interior Decorating and Furniture 
Work, gained by twenty-eight years practical experience, is at 
your disposal, as I personally have charge of the correspondence 
department and will be glad to advise you at any time. 

Very truly yours, 

G. A. MACKEY. 



THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 



Part I. The Start. 

Upholstered furniture is so varied in style and workman- 
ship, that I will describe the methods and ways of doing- each 
and all parts of the work, leaving- you to use that fart best 
suited to the work in hand. 

First, see to the tools. For ordinary work, you will need 
only tack hammer, shears and knife. All the tools that are 
necessary for the best work, comprising- upholsterer's hammer, 
shears, webbing- stretcher, curved and straight needles and 
spring-ing- needle, we can furnish. 

To work on a chair, g-et a low box to stand chair on, bring-- 
ing- the seat about to your waist. To work on the back of chair 
lay it down on the box. For lounge, couch, tete, sofa, etc., use 
two boxes, one at each end, so as to raise your work to a com- 
fortable heig-ht for tacking-. Factories and custom shops use 
regular trestles, but a store box will do as well. 



THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 



Part II. Tearing Down. 

Do not tear down more thou is necessary. . 

FIRST look the furniture over carefully, take off the cam- 
bric lining- at bottom, (if any). You can then see from the 
bottom if the webbing", springs and burlap partition are in good 
shapr\ If in good shape, do not disturb them ; simply re-cover. 
( See Part IX.) If webbing is broken, tack back in place as 
best you can, and put over it a new webbing bottom. (See 
Part III.) 

If seat is all in bad shape so it can not be repaired from the 
bottom take everything off. Start with us at Part III and go 
through to the finish. You will find it very easy, taking up a 
part at a time, until completed. 

NOTE. — If you will examine the work as you tear it apart, 
it will ho a great help to you in putting it in shape again. 
Notice particularly how the springs are placed and tied. 



THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 




Part III. The Webbing or Foundation. 

The webbing- is the foundation and must be tacked on 
securely, using* 12 oz, tacks and tacking on the extreme bottom. 
Fold the raw edge in and tack to one side of frame securely. 
Then stretch across and tack. Use a webbing stretcher, to get 
it tight. It can be stretched by hand, if a webbing stretcher is 
not at hand. Stretch as many strips as necessary across one 
way. Then stretch strips across the opposite way, weaving 
over and under to form a firm, taut foundation. (See Illustra- 
tion.) The closer you place the strips of webbing, the stronger 
your foundation will be. 



NOTE. — After you stretch and tack your webbing, cut the 
webbing off one inch outside your tacks so you can fold back and 
double tack. 



THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 




Part IV, Sewing in Springs. 

Sew spring's to webbing' with flax stitching twine, using a 
springing needle. Simply hold spring in place and sew through 
the webbing around the base loop of spring. Sew up on one 
side of wire and down on the other, forming a firm, quarter- 
inch stitch, about four stitches to each spring. When putting 
springs in a slat bottom longue or couch, drive staples through 
the base wire into the slats. 



NOTE — It's best to use same number of springs as origin- 
ally used, but if you wish more, don't place them closer than one 
inch, and keep them about three inches from the edge of frame. 



THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 




Part V. Spring Tying. 



Springs are tied with flax spring- twine, using 12-oz. tacks 
to secure ends of twine. Begin by cutting twine in lengths to 
reach across the frame, over the springs, and allow three inches 
for knots on each spring to be tied. Tie a common knot at one 
end of twine which you secure to edge of frame by driving a 
12-oz. tack through the knot and into the frame, in a line with 
each row of springs. Then draw the \w\x\e forwa?'d and loop it 
around the top coil of the first spring. Slide the spring forward 
or backward until in a straight, upright position, then tie. 
Cross over to opposite side and tie again. Then come forward 
to next spring and tie, and continue tying each spring to the 
last, when you secure twine to edge of frame by driving a tack 
half in, on a line with the tied springs ; twist the twine around 
it, draw springs down as far as you wish and drive the tack 
solid. Then cross-tie in the same manner. 



THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE 




Part VI. Putting on Partition. 



This should be of good, strong 1 burlap, coffee sacking- or 
duck. Tack partition over the springs, using 4-oz. tacks, driv- 
en from one to two inches apart to hold securely. Do not 
stretch partition too tight. 

Cut to fit the seat allowing about two inches all around to 
fold back and tack. 

. Lay the burlap over the springs so as to have plenty to tack 
all around. Then fold edges and tack at front, back and sides. 
Then tack, to the coiners. In this way, you are sure to get 
the partition on evenly, without any baggy surplus at the 
corners. Back partitions are tacked on in the same manner. 
Always tack center first then finish tacking to corners. 



10 



THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 




Part VII. Making Square Edge. 



This edge is used where a substantial edge is desired lor a 
seat or back. Can also be used to very good advantage as an 
edge on a spring-edge couch, when a smooth, plain job is de- 
sired. Pinning and stitching to wire edge instead of tacking 
as on a seat or back. 

First, you fill the seat of back about two inches, with ex- 
celsior or flax tow. Then loose tack a burlap cover over it. 
Mark around on the burlap, about three inches from the outer 
edge and stitch with stitching twine up and down through the 
partition and marked burlap, keeping on the marks. Take out 
the loose tacks and fill the edges to form a roll of the heighth 
desired and tack down securely. Then take needle and stitch 
through the roll from the outer side to the top. Stitch the full 
length of the roll and you will have a good, firm edgr. Take 
stitches about one inch apart. 



THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 



ll 




Part VIII. Filling or Stuffing. 

If the filling- when taken from your job is in good shape, 
and you are careful in removing - it, you can often use it again 
without disturbing it. Otherwise, you must shake it all out 
and loosen it up so you can spread it evenly. No matter what 
filling you use in your work, spread it evenly. This assures you 
a nice, smooth job. Fill to a thickness of from one and one- 
half to two inches when matted. This you can determine by 
placing your hand under the partition and on top of the filling 
and press together. Or you may fill till you do not feel the 
springs through the filling. Always lay cotton over the filling 
before you put on the cover. 



NOTE- — Use flax tow for most work 
for tufted work or leather. 



Moss or hair is best 



12 



THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 




Part IX. Putting on the Cover. 

There are a few simple rules in tacking- on a cover, which, 
if followed, will give you a nice, smooth job. 

Always start tacking at ihe back of a seat, or the bottom 
of a back. 

On a seat, tack back center first, then draw to front and 
tack center. Next tack center on each side, drawing the cover 
down well as you tack. Then tack from center to corners, all 
around, then finish corners by cutting the goods toward the arm 
or back parts, starting to cut at the corners of the goods or 
cover, fold in the surplus, draw down and tack. It is a good 
plan to loose-tack your cover on first, to get it in place. Then 
draw down and tack solid. 



NOTE. — Do not fold in the raw edges of goods ; simplv 
tack flat in a straight line and trim the surplus goods off with a 
sharp knife. Then gimp. (See Part XII.) If the chair is to 
have a front band, or the cover extends under the back or arms, 
you may sew on an extension of ticking, thereby saving cover- 
ing- material. 



THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 



13 




Part X. Tufting with Allowances. 



In making- tufted work, care must he taken in making - the 
proper allowances for fullness. For biscuit tufts, mark your 
cover one and one-half inches larger than your foundation. For 
instance : you wish to divide a seat or back into three-inch 
biscuits, you would mark your foundation three inches square, 
and your cover four and one-quarter inches square, and allow 
one inch more for the outer row or edge. 

For diamond tufts, allow one and one-half inches in width 
and three-quarters in length, viz. : A diamond of 5 x 8, would 
mark foundation 5 x 8. (See Illustration IX) and the cover 
b}4 x83/[. These allowances are right for all sized work ; so 
no matter what size tuft you make, the above rule can be fol- 
lowed. After buttoning or tacking the cover and the founda- 
tion through corresponding marks, one row at a time, you 
stuff or fill them until all are even and smooth. Then you fill 
and tack the edges down all around. 



14 



THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 




Part XI. Fancy Bands and Fronts. 



A nice front band often relieves an otherwise very plain piece 
of furniture 

Plain bands are made by sewing a three and one-half or four 
inch strip of material to the front edge of seat, a little below the 
top of edge. Use a curved needle and sew with a two inch stitch 
or closer. Fill with cotton and tack down. Then sew on a silk 
cord, sewing through the under twist of cord, thereby concealing 
the stitches. 

A buttoned front is made in the same manner, except that you 
divide and mark off the front into spaces of from three to three and 
one-half inches. (See Illustration of Part X. ) And when sewing 
on the band lay a one-half inch pleat at each mark. After sewing 
on the band, draw a button into each pleat half way down between 
top and bottom of band. Secure buttons to chair front with curved 
needle. Starting at one end secure twine to button then to chair 
front, then next button, and so on until all are drawn tight to the 
front. Then fill between each button and tack down, drawing the 
pleats down straight. 



THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 



15 




Part XII. Gimping===(Binding.) 



Before gimping a chair care should be taken to see that it is all 
trimmed off nice and even. Take a sharp knife and give it a rough 
cutting edge on sandstone or sandpaper. 

Trim away all the surplus goods and ragged edges. Then 
gimp, using the small headed tacks made for this purpose. The 
corners should be carefully turned by folding the gimp back at 
corner and tacking. It will then form a blind tacked, mitred 
corner. 

Leather work should be finished with leather binding and 
large leather-headed tacks. Cover bottoms and backs with cambric 
or cotton flannel. We are always careful in matching gimps and 
cords to coverings, otherwise a very nice job could very easily be 
spoiled . 



16 THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 



Part XIII. Couch Construction. 

Most furniture now manufactured is built with the spring or 
soft edge construction, and we feel this to be a very important part 
of this work. You will have no trouble with it if you get a couch 
started right along with me, then you will be better able to see 
and understand. If there is any point not made clear, Write Us. 

I will give a complete explanation of fastening and tying the 
springs. You use that part of it which is necessary to make your 
couch right. 

The springs must be securely fastened to the webbing or 
slats. 

The edge springs must set close against the inside of the edge 
of frame. 



THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 17 




Part XIV. Spring Edge. 



Tie across the eoueh first. Cut as man}- lengths of twine as 
there are rows of springs. Cut each twine six feet. Tie a knot 
fifteen inches from one end of twine and fasten a twine to the 
frame at center of each row of springs, by driving a 12 oz. tack 
through the knot and into the frame. 

Commence tying by a single loop around the fourth coil from 
the top of spring. Draw the spring forward so the top coil is just 
even with the outside of the frame when the edge spring is held 
level across the top. To get this just right, you work } T our edge 
spring backward and forward on the loop. When in proper posi- 
tion (as above) you hold loop tight and form a knot, of which the 
loop was the first part. Then you pass the twine up inside the 
spring and tie around the back or inner side of the top coil, which 
leaves the froit of top coil free to work up or down, thus forming 
the spring edge. After tying the edge spring, continue tying across 
the couch in the regular manner (as Part V) until you come to the 
opposite edge spring, which must be tied with the same results as 
the other side, only reversing the work by looping around the inner 
side of top coil and draw until straight with outer edge of frame, 
then tie, and go down inside of edge spring and tie at fourth loop, 
and secure twine to frame. This will leave a long end of twine for 
future use. Keeping on in this way, tie all the cross rows except 
the row at the foot of couch which is left to form a spring edge 
end. The heads are usually tied plain, without the spring edge. 



18 THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 



Part XIV==Continued. 

To tie lengthwise of couch, cut the twines eight feet long, 
fasten on the cross-piece or brace at the head of couch and tie each 
spring straight, as for common seat, until you come to end spring 
which you tie to form a spring edge at end, same as sides. Tie all 
lengthwise, except the edge rows. Then you fasten your edge 
wire to the edge springs by looping the five inch surplus twine ends 
around both the wire and edge springs, and drawing them down to 
the proper height, which is from three and one-half to five inches. 
(It is a good plan to notice what this height is before you cut off all 
the old twines when tearing apart.) After tying the wire and 
spring edge together draw the end of twine back to inner top loop 
of edge spring and tie again. Then wrap the wire and edge spring 
on each side of knot, using stitching twine. After making your 
edge good and solid and straight, you tie the edge springs length- 
wise and the end edge springs across, and your springs are com- 
plete. The corner springs at the foot of couch usually hold with 
the last bias tying. 



THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 



19 




Part XV. A Complete Couch. 



Now to complete our couch we must put on a good, strong par- 
tition or foundation, tacking it over the springs to the sides of the 
frame and sew the partition to the edge wire, by simply stitching 
through the partition and around the wire. Then comes the cover. 

If you wish plain top with band sides, (See Parts IX and XI.) 
If you want it tufted, mark off your partition and make to suit your 
own taste, using allowances as Part X. If the original cover is 
good, use the same button marks as before and mark the new parti- 
tion by the old. 

The best way to upholster a couch is with a plain top — spring 
edge, with stitched roll, as Part VII. Upholster it in heavy 
muslin or the old cover, and use a Bagdad or loose cover over it. 
These are inexpensive, sanitary and convenient. We can supply 
you with all styles. 



20 



THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 




Part XVI. Skirt, Shirt Waist and Shoe Boxes. 



These convenient and handsome novelties are easily upholstered. 
The boxes can be bad from the grocer, shoe and dry goods dealer. 
A Star soap box is just right for a shoe box, being the right 
height to sit on when dressing the fest. 

The long, narrow boxes, for skirts, you will find at the shoe 
dealers. Shirt waist boxes are usually found at the dry goods 
store. 

The lid, after being oleated together and hinged, may be cov- 
ered plain over several layers of cotton, or made more elaborate by 
tufting. (vSee Part X. > 

For the box part, cut a strip four inches wide and long enough 
to go around the box. Tack it on the upper edge of box ; make a 
roll of cotton and place under it and tack down. Then pleat on a 
valance. A box pleat looks best. Line the inside with cambric 
and gimp all raw edges. You can have these boxes any size to fit 
any space. They are very pretty piled with pillows. 



THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 




Part XVII. Nooks and Corners. 



Have you a window in which you wish to build a seat ? If 
you wish it temporary, at but little cost, fit the space with suitable 
boxes and upholster as Part XVI. If you want something special, 
or more elaborate, after your carpenter has built the window seat, 
send us the exact dimensions of the top, and we will draft you a 
regular pattern of the latest style seat top, all ready to mark off on 
material, sew up and fill. As a customers this service is free to 
you. 

The common boxes can be made very pretty by tufting the top 
and putting uii a buttoned band and then a valance. 

Cozy corners fit the little nooks and turns nicely, and are easily 
made by following the different parts of this work. You can trim 
them to suit your individual taste and requirements. 

We have art materials, figured and colored demins and burlaps 
especially for this purpose. 



22 



THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 




Part XVIII. Leather Seats in Dining Chairs. 



It costs from 75 cents to $1.00 to have a chair seat re-caned, so 
we will put a leather seat in this one, and save money, besides hav- 
ing a handsomer and better seat. 

First, stretch webbing across each way of the seat, tacking just 
outside of old cane holes on the top of seat. Then tack on a parti- 
tion of good burlap or heavy duck. Then cut your cover to fit and 
tack on well each way, leaving it open at .the front, where you fill 
or stuff it. Take a yard stick or flat piece of wood and stuff in the 
filling, a little at a time to keep it smooth. By beating the top of 
the seat with your stick as you fill it, will help keep it smooth, 
and you will have a perfect seat. 

After filling, close the front and trim and gimp it with leather 
binding and leather-headed tacks. 

Fill with moss or hair ; flax tow will do. 



THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 23 



Part XIX. Refinishing Woodwork. 

Here are a few rules, which if followed closely, will make your 
furniture look fresh and new. If you wish to refinish a frame, 
always clean it well, first by sponging it thoroughly with a solution 
of sal soda and water, just strong enough to cleanse nicely, then 
rinse off well and allow to thoroughly dry. Then see that the 
frame is perfectly free from dust and flow on a coat of No. 1 furni- 
ture varnish. Use a very soft brush and place frame where there 
will be no dust, until thoroughly dry. 

If you wish a high polish, let it dry at least four days, then 
rub with water and rottonstone, clean off and polish by rubbing 
with the palm of the hand after dipping the hand into a very weak 
solution of sulphuric acid and water. 

For an oil finish, rub with o\\ and rottenstone. If you wish to 
change the finish, as from light wood to mahogany, antique oak to 
golden oak, etc., it is best to get the stains ready mixed. We will 
be glad to supply your individual requirements and tell you just 
what to do, if you write us. 



24 THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 



Miscellaneous Furniture Helps. 



For A Dainty Chamber. 

Paint the woodwork white, the ceiling- a faint tint of green, 
cover the walls with a paper having a cream ground, green foli- 
age and pink flowers. Either wild roses or apple blossoms 
would be pretty. If your floor is pine, stain mahogany and 
use rugs. Or use a Japanese matting, make window draperies 
and bed spread of English dimity or art ticking, using a pattern 
having a white ground with delicate lines or vines oi pink. 
The furniture should be all white enamel. We will quote you 
a price on our system of enamel work and send Jull instructions 
for using same, if you will state size of room and number of 
doors and windows and amount of furniture you wish to enamel. 
Our systemis the results of experience and is simple, durable 
and most economical. 

Oak or Mahogany Stain. 

For oak stain, mix together a pint of boiled linseed oil, a 
o-ill and a half of turpentine, three table spoonfuls of raw 
umber, same of whiting. Mahogany stain is made with one 
pint of boiled linseed oil, a gill and a half of turpentine, three 
table spoonfuls of sienna, three table spoonfuls of whiting, half 
a table spoonful of yellow ochre, half a table spoonful of Bismark 
brown and half a teaspoonful of aniline black. Try a little stain 
on a piece of board before using on floor or piece of furniture. 
You can lighten or darken the shade by increasing or diminish- 
ing the coloring matter. Rub the stain into the wood, let set 
a day or two, and rub hard with a woolen cloth, then varnish, 
wax or oil finish it. 

To Clean Mahogany or High Polished Furniture. 

Spread parafine oil on the woodwork and let it stand an 
hour or more to soften the dirt, then wash with soap and warm 
water and wipe dry. Next rub on a mixture of parafine two- 
thirds and turpentine one-third, and polish with soft old flan- 
nel. Let it rest for an hour or two, then polish with soft old 
linen. 



THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 25 



Ink Stains. 

Can be removed from mahogany with one teaspoonful of 
oil of vitrol mixed with one tablespoonful of water, or by oxalic 
acid and water. These washes should be used lightly and 
quickly and then washed off with milk. 

To Clean Leather. 

Mix tog-ether one-half pound each of French chalk and 
fuller's earth, two ounces of powdered starch and one ounce of 
of yellow ochre. Wet this with boiling - water enough to make 
a thin paste and add one table spoonful of sweet oil, when cold 
spread on the soiled leather and let dry, then brush off. Clean 
thoroughly, then polish with wax melted and turpentine, 
(four ounces wax, 1 gill turpentine ) To darken the leather, add 
little oil to wax preparation. 

Bamboo, Rattan and Cane Furniture 

should be cleaned with salt dissolved in warm water. Salt pre- 
vents it from turning yellow. Use a brush and scrub well, leav- 
ing no place untouched. Japanese or Indian matting should 
receive the same treatment after being thoroughly swept. 

Spots on Leather Covered Furniture 

may be rubbed off with a soft cloth wrung out of hot milk. 

Furniture Polish. 

Equal parts crude nil and turpentine. Rub well with a 
flannel cloth and polish with a dry one. Oil and vinegar is 
very good for wiping up both furniture and linoleum. 

Mahogany Polish 

is composed of one-third part boiled linseed and two-thirds 
part alcohol schallac varnish. Shake well, apply in small 
quantities. Rub well and polish vigorously with a dry flannel. 

Moths In Upholstered Furniture. 

Sprinkle with benzine, it will not stain the most delicate 
silk and the oder will soon pass away. 



26 THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 

Moths in Clothes Closets. 

Burn a teasponful of ^ r um camphor where they are. 

Moths Under Carpets. 

Spread a zvct sheet oti the carpet and run a hot iron quickly 
over it. The steam will destroy both worms and eggs. 

Moths Under the Edge of Carpet. 

Get a supply of permangranate of potash and make solution 
by' placing - one-fourth ounce of crystals in an old pail and pour 
over them a quart of boiling water. Then apply it all around 
the edge of room with an old cloth. Use it hot and cover a foot 
or two all around the edge of room. The liquor sinking into 
the wood kills all life in the crannies of the floor, or in the 
wood fibre. Newspapers thickly spread on floor and in chests 
make them go. They don"t like fin' liter's ink. 
Sure Death to Bed Bugs. 

An unfailing preparation for the extermination of bed bugs 
is as follows: Mix 10 cents worth of corrosive sublimate, lo cents 
worth of carbolic acid and a quart of naptha. Apply daily with a 
brush in all spotswhich indicate the presence of such pests. Use 
small brush and don't miss a corner or crevise where they might 
escape, and in a short time they will be absolutely removed. 
Always open windows and be very careful of any light or fire 
when using this .mixture, as it is very inflammable. 

Brass Bed Polish. 

Clean with rotten stone and oil, or any good brass polish. 
When clean, burnish by rubbing with a clean flannel cloth until 
brass is hot, then apply alcohol shellac with a small paintbrush 
and it will look and wear like new. 

In putting down Turkish rugs always spread with the warp 
toward the light in order to get full effect of the sheen. 

An Inexpensive Couch. 

For couch for chamber or common room, get a woven wire 
springs cot (cost $2.00.) A composition mattress to fit (cost 
Si. 50) and material for loose drapery at most any price. We 
can furnish you a regular couch cover at Si. 75 that is good. 
Making a total of $5.25 for a very comfortable Bagdad or Per- 
sion draped couch. 



THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 27 



Part XXI. How to Measure for Cover. 

If you can not determine just how much material you need for 
a certain job, take measures as follows and we will send you a 
memorandum of the amount of goods required, and cut to fit when 
we receive your order. 



f From back to front -. inches. 

Measure Seat < 

(From side to side inches. 

( From top to bottom inches. 

Measure Back ■< 

( From side to side inches. 



Arms, if any, — give length and width. 

For lounge or couch, give length or width, and state whether 
plain or tufted. 

NOTE. — Take all measurements over the old cover. 



THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 




SAMPLE DEPARTMENT. 



How to Order Samples. 



On the next page are a few small samples to give you an idea 
of our goods and prices. We import and carry a full line of all 
furniture coverings. Can furnish you with any grade or color you 
may wish, from cotton goods at 20 cents a yard to imported silks 
and Orientals at $18.00 per yard. Will gladly send you samples of 
any you may wish, if you will kindly assist us to make an intelli- 
gent selection of samples suitable to your individual needs. To do 
this, please state style or kind of furniture you wish to upholster 
and color or kind of wood and frame. If you know in which room 
you will place it, kindly let us know the predominating color of 
carpet and walls. We will then be able to send you samples of 
goods that will be in harmony with the frame and surroundings. 
No matter what grade of material you select, harmony is most 
essential. Our goods are graded so you may easily determine the 
quality of which you wish samples. 

GradeA, $4.00to$lS.OO; B, $1.25 to $3.50 ; C.$ .75 to $1.50 ; 
D, $ .20 to $ .75. This free sample service for our customers only. 



THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 



29 



Our upholstering materials are produced in the best textile 
mills in the world — we guarantee them. 



Dark Green, Maroon, 
Tan. 



Dark Green, Maroon, 
Tan. 



Leather, 30 cents square foot. 



Chase leather, 30 cents square foot. 



Myrtle Green, Old Red, 

Olive, Brown, Old Rose, 

Light Blue. 



Myrtle Green, Old Rose, 

Ecru, Brown, 

Olive. 



Silk Brockatelle, 50 in. wide, $3.38. Goeblin Tapestry, 50 in. wide, $1. 
25 in. wide, $1.70. 25 in. wide, $ .95. 



Myrtle Green, 
Red, Brown, Blue. 



Striped Effects, in 
all Colors. 



Velour, 27 in. wide, $ .65. 



Oriental Damask, 50 in, wide, % .50. 
25 in. wide, $ .25. 



30 



THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 



Upholstering Supplies and Tools. 




Upholsterer's H ammer 35c 



Webbing Stretcher 15c 



Curved Needles, 6 in. 18c. 4 in. 15c 

Straight Needle, double point 

16-in. 25c. -'-in. 15c. 



Shears 50c to $1.50 

Springing Needles 5c 

Complete Outfit $1.50. 



Slitchiner Twine, per 100 yards. ..10c 

Spring- Twine, per 100 feet 10c 

Webbing-, per foot 2c 

12-oz. Tacks, per pkg 10c 

4-oz. Tacks, per pkg 5c 

2}4-oz. Tacks, per pkg 5c 

Gimp Tacks, per pkg 5c 

12-inch Springs, each 6c 

9-inch Springs, each 5c 



6-inch Springs, each 4c 

Hair, per lb 15 to 30c 

Moss, per lb 8 1c 15c 

Flax Tow, per lb 2 to 3c 

Wood Wool, per lb \y 2 to 2c 

Ball Bearing Casters, set of 4 35c 

Philadelphia Casters, set of 4 20c 

Either Stem or Plate. 



The following are furnished in all the standard colors to match goods. 



Silk Gimp, per yard 3c 

Acme Gimp, per yard 2c 

Silk Cord, per yard 6c 

Acme Cord, per yard.. 4c 

Leather Binding, per yard 2c 



Leather Tacks, per 100 25c 

Leather Buttons, per 100 25c 

Buttons or Tacks covered to order 

per dozen 10c 

Patent Clinch Buttons, per 100. ..35c 
Covered to order, extra, per doz..l5c 



THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 31 



To Order Material. 

In ordering goods and supplies it is best to send money with 
order, thereby saving the C. O. D. return charges. If you do not 
know the exact amount and send more than is necessary to pay the 
bill, we return the balance at once. 

If you wish you may send your order without the remittance 
and we will mail you a memoranda of the bill. 

Should you order goods shipped C. O. D. inclose about one- 
third the amount of order. If the order is small (under 4 pounds) 
better order it sent by mail. Large bulky orders we ship by 
freight, unless ordered rush. We always ship to your best advan- 
tage. 

We refer you to the banks and express companies in our city. 



32 THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 



To Our Customers. 

Kindly bear in mind the fact that we are prepared and will be 
pleased to answer any and all questions pertaining to upholstering 
and home decoration. 

And while this book covers all the points on upholstering-, we 
are always ready to advise you concerning your particular case. 
We are yours to command, 

The Mackey Company, 

Elyria, Ohio. 



LB Agra 



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